Chao Sang

These days, it’s not exactly hard to find a pop-up around town. So when on the look out for one, unique themes and meal times will catch my eye more than others. Good thing Chef Connie Tran is launching her centrally located Sunday Vietnamese brunch pop-up on Melrose.

It’s a refreshing survey of her style of Vietnamese dishes. Because sometimes, you just want to go beyond a bowl of pho, and for multiple courses. And the option to BYOB is always a great way to go.

Thit Kho, Tom Rang, Ca Tim

I loved the vibrant flavors of the brunch, which kicked off with a savory bowl of modern congee, or rice porridge – after extracting myself from a quickly attained addiction to the spiced boiled peanuts that were set on the table. It’s hard to argue with modernization in the form of lardon crisps, poached egg and sage brown butter, really. A refreshing salad, pleasing to the eye, follows with burrata, fennel and a light lemon dressing.

You’ll wrap sheets of woven vermicelli around deliciously grilled beef wrapped in betel leaves and grilled tumeric catfish – finished off with herbs – like basil. Then you’ll dip them in n??c ch?m, tender to the bite and easy to sink your teeth into.

And then come the Braised Galangal Pork with boiled quail eggs and coconut molasses, Grilled Honey Prawns with okra (keep your eye on the bird’s eye chili) and carmelized shallots, and finally Asian Eggplant with Grilled Corn and Purple Perilla Scallion Oil. All of these family-style little dishes served with Jasmine rice are contrasts with each other and flavorful. Kabocha squash pudding and Coconut Gelato Sandwich are just enough to elegantly sate your sweet tooth for the finale.

No alcohol is served, so you’re free to bring your own libations. But I do recommend the pickled plum soda for some cheek-sucking, effervescent pleasure. In all, you’ve never had a brunch as bright as this.

on the table
spiced boiled peanuts

first
chao sang: rice porridge, lardon crisps, poached egg, sage brown butter
starfruit, fennel, burrata, bibb lettuce, lemon balm dressing

vermicelli
bo la lot: grilled beef wrapped in betel leaf, roasted peanuts
cha ca thanh long: grilled turmeric catfish, dill, green scallions, roasted peanuts, sesame crackers
served with vermicelli cakes, mixed herbs & nuoc cham

rice
thit kho: braised galangal pork, quail eggs, coconut molasses, BEP picklins
tom rang: grilled honey prawns, okra, bird chili, caramelized shallots, northern mint
ca tim: asian eggplant, grilled corn, purple perilla scallion oil
served with jasmine rice

sweet
coconut gelato sandwich: chili sesame cookies
kabocha pot de crème, vietnamese yogurt, peanut ginger brittle

drink
chrysanthemum mint tea (hot/iced), pickled plum soda, vietnamese coffee (hot/iced)

Further reading: Interview with Chef Connie Tran on LA Magazine Digest Blog

All food and drink were hosted.

Neighborhood Hot Spot

It’s curious that Pingtung is called an “Eat-in Market,” the “market” designation perhaps being a way of propping up the Asian goods that lie on overhead (to me) shelves along the sides of the deep-drawn cafe. Though I have a few guilty snack pleasures such as Yan Yan, Shrimp Chips, that clear, Japanese soda with the swingy little ball, Calpico and the like, I’d make the trek to 99 Ranch, Mitsuwa or Zion if I wanted to go Asian grocery shopping. (I’m trying to cut down on the snacks, much less MSG-laden ones, anyway.)

Sauteed Pea Shoots

But like the hot food that’s served in-house, the packaged snacks and sodas are a great pick-me-up. They are at the center of the already bustling, 3-week-old cafe, and it seems like the place is smoothly transitioning into a neighborhood favorite. There’s a really pleasant back patio complete with requisite orchids from opening day, a few lounge seats and a square-shaped patio with bench and table seating lining the walls. Li Ping runs the show, as I’ve noticed she’s a cook, expediter as well as sometime-server. The urgency she brings to my Friday night visit is not lost on the ambiance, either, but it’s exciting.

Named after the town in southern Taiwan where owner-cook Li Ping is from, Pingtung struck an internal chord because while I’m Taiwanese, both of my parents are also from the south part of the island. Of course, all of this became somewhat irrelevant once I looked at the menu, which is a mishmash of Chinese, Taiwanese and Japanese, with dashes of Korean and Vietnamese.

Like all cafes in the San Gabriel Valley (or even Momofuku Ssam Bar in New York), every table comes with a bevy of condiments. Sriracha, soy sauce, salt, pepper, sweet chili sauce and dumpling sauce (soy with vinegar, for sure) accompany napkins, chopsticks and angular soup spoons. The price points are more than reasonable for what is transported to and ultimately transplanted right in the middle of the funky shopping district part of Melrose. The consistent quality despite the wide range on the well-curated menu betrays that this is not Li Ping’s first restaurant.

Radish Cakes with Chinese Sausage

I have lived in Los Angeles for over a decade and I still have friends I have not successfully schlepped out to San Gabriel Valley for dim sum, for both distance and weekend awakening requirements (dim sum is usually available only on weekend mornings to early afternoon). If you’re the same, Pingtung may also be your answer. They open until 11 PM, and your friends were probably not ready for the chicken feet in black bean sauce or the pork knuckles in ginger, anyway. Shrimp dumplings, radish cakes, chicken shumai, sticky rice tamales, spring rolls, stuffed mushrooms, pork encased in tofu skin, panfried pork or steamed BBQ pork buns are amongst almost twenty varieties of dim sum. If you could name the overall American favorites of dim sum, they’d probably be right here, without too much Americanization.

The Taiwanese dishes, such as the pea shoots with garlic and fermented bean and bean curd in vinegar sauce, were on the mark – and dare I say, just like Mom’s. Sure, there’s an emotional attachment (these were dishes I was eating at home for dinner with my family in Wisconsin while my classmates ate casserole), but let’s just say how little I was expecting based on Pingtung’s outpost on Melrose alone: Not much. The Scallion Pancake, a Taiwanese classic, was more than decent. The texture, a crispy outside with an almost buttery, pull-apart inside also translated to their sweet dessert flatbread version, which comes topped with mochi ice cream.

Pork & Shrimp Shumai

But there’s so much to cover: There’s not just Tonkotsu Ramen, but excellent Spicy Miso Tonkotsu Ramen with thin, bitey noodles – and chicken varieties available on both. If you want chicken curry (it’s really tasty), they have that too – as well as a rotating variety of spicy rolls and dressed sashimi.

Feeling like a sandwich? Banh Mi sandwiches come with a variety of fillings and with a side du jour. Feeling like something over rice? They’ve got Mapo Doufu (Spicy Bean Curd Home Style), Paiku Pork Chop and even Galbi BBQ Beef. While I haven’t tried these, I noticed pretty generous, un-L.A. portions coming out of the kitchen and very satisfied diners bent over bowls of them all.

The best thing about their drink menu is, like the food, the variety. Width over depth, though both menus stop just short of trying to do too much. There are many teas – a multitude as compared with the choices you get at SGV dim sum (flower or oolong) – but there are also beers on tap, sakes and Stumptown coffee. The 5 taps they have aren’t the fancy craft beer kind but they’re enough – with Kirin, Sapporo, Stella and Negra Modelo rounding out the light beer selection Asian food is meant to be enjoyed with. If you so please, there’s also shochu and wine.

The success of Pingtung could be the trickling down of the phasing out of the offensive “ethnic” descriptor of food. While Bryant Ng (The Spice Table), Roy Choi (Kogi, A-Frame, Sunny Spot) and Kris Yenbamroong (Night + Market) have received mainstream recognition for their respective Asian culinary prowess in Metro L.A., Pingtung isn’t trying to revolutionize anything, but trying to serve Asian favorites in a previously unattainable location to an audience that’s finally ready, willing and curious.

Bravo, and long live the Asian cafe.

All food and beer were hosted.

Comme Ça Burger

With the popularity of burgers in this city still going strong, Comme Ça’s David Myers has decided to capitalize on his burger’s longtime reputation as being one of the best burgers in LA (or more specifically, The Best Brasserie Burger in LA). Tomorrow, the Melrose Avenue restaurant will start a Tuesday Burger Night weekly and expand their bun and patty combos beyond the classic.

Check below for your gourmet burger options:

• Comme Ca Burger – $18

• Swiss Melt Burger – $18
  Angus beef, gruyere cheese, mushrooms, butter lettuce, crispy onion rings, French fries, garlic aioli

• Black and Blue Burger – $18
  Angus beef, bleu cheese, red onion, bacon, French fries, garlic aioli

• Lamb Merguez Burger – $16
  Lamb sausage, roasted peppers and caramelized onions, arugula on ciabatta bun, French fries, harissa aioli

• Breakfast Burger – $14
  House made pork sausage, egg sunny side up, white gravy, on an English muffin, lyonnaise potato

• CCVB – $14 (Comme Ca Veggie Burger)
  Cashew & pine nuts, garbanzo bean, ajuwan-tomato jam on a tofu bun, baby kale and spinach salad

And since these burgers call for a better pairing than a fountain coke, Comme Ça will be offering a list of “Cellar Finds,” or rare wines, at special values to wash your special burger down.

You know where to be tomorrow night (or the Tuesday night after that, and after that). Not a bad place to go after a couple cocktails at The Roger Room (you’ll want to get to The Room earlier than later)!

Banh Mi

There’s a sandwich shop that just debuted last week and thus far, it has sold out everyday ahead of its scheduled close time of 5 PM. Dare I suggest, however, that it’s worth getting there right at its 11AM opening?

Menu

While I’ve often complained about the selection of lunch options near my office, I was happy to find on opening day that ink.sack was an easy to drive north – I got there in 7.5 minutes. It’s a school-themed enclave with standing room only (if even that). Ink and Ink Sack sandwiches the dessert landmark, Sweet Lady Jane between them on the designer shopping-laden end of Melrose.

The menu features a manageable dozen items with just more than half being 6-inch sandwiches ($4-6 each) and the rest being crispy salt & vinegar potato chips, compressed fruit seasoned with chili and cookies. On a normal lunch, I can devour about two sandwiches with sides.

Sack lunch, indeed. (With Mexican Fruit)

My favorites were the Jose Andres, or “The Spanish Godfather” (Serrano ham, chorizo, lomo, Manchego) and the Banh Mi (pork cheek, chicharrones, pickled vegetables). I also really liked the Maple Turkey Melt, complete with Camembert, mustarda and arugula. The bread is also solid and while good quality, doesn’t overwhelm the small sandwich.

I’ve yet to try the two chicken varieties (with cold fried chicken and chicken liver mousse, each) but rest assured, for the amount of hype the Voltaggio name garners, the bottom line is that each sandwich is a reasonably priced dosage of delicious goodness. Just remember that they’re so popular, Ink Sack has been forced to institute a 6-sandwich maximum per person.

Don’t forget your fruits. (The veggies are in the sandwich.)

Potential Flavors for Beer Week

We’re in the middle of LA Beer Week and that means it’s time for Tai Kim’s beer flavored ice cream to debut. Yes – that means that today, perfected versions of flavors like Unibroue Quelquechose With Cherry, Guinness Tiramisu, Chimay Premiere With Apricot, Firestone IPA Union Jack With Mocha, Lost Coast Tangerine Wheat Ale With Hazelnut and The Bruery Autumn Maple With Molasses will be at Scoops on Heliotrope for all beer and ice cream enthusiasts to enjoy. (Though, I’m told that The Bruery’s Autumn Maple may be too hard to acquire to make this flavor, unfortunately.)

Tai Scooping Ice Cream

A couple of weeks ago, a few bloggers and I were invited to preview the making of these special flavors. It was so fun to see Tai at his machine, pouring in his special concoctions and, of course, the beer. Curious for more? Be sure to pop on over to Caroline On Crack’s post on this preview for her great videos of the action. My personal favorite was definitely the Lost Coast Tangerine Wheat Ale With Hazelnut. What can I say? The beer flavorings are very subtle – but I I’m a sucker for hazelnut, and it was one of the most potent flavors and the wheaty tangerine was a nice spin on things.

So head on over to Scoops today, and find out one of the sweetest ways to celebrate LA Beer Week. I’m curious myself to see what flavors actually came out of all that experimentation.

Studio Beauty Mix, Fred Segal Melrose

Tonight’s the night! Exactly a year ago I was in New York during Fashion Week and had an absolute blast during the first ever Fashion’s Night Out. Goodie bags, champagne, cocktails, discounts, free make-overs, cupcakes – you name it. But we’re doing our best here, in LA, so I thought I’d highlight the events going on around town that I would want to hit up.

For the complete listing, just head on over to the Official LA FNO site, which groups the retailers by neighborhood. You can also check out Mondette’s run-down, which expertly and succinctly lists what each store is doing for tonight’s special occasion. The @FNOlosangeles and @FashionWeekLA twitter accounts are also great resources. And while you’re out there on the town, don’t forget to bring your appetite because the food trucks will certainly be out in full force.

I’ll be elsewhere tonight but if I were to make a night out of succumbing my wallet to temptation (and a portal to get me all over town in a jiff), I’d go here:

Custo Barcelona, Beverly Center

• Free Custo Jelly Bag with $50 purchase. I love Custo’s vibrant designs and mix of fabrics and patterns. Not for gals who are most comfortable with the little black dress.

A Ferris Wheel and surrounding shops, Rodeo Drive

• I’ve never seen a ferris wheel on Rodeo Drive, so maybe this is just a cheap thrill. Still, Rodeo’s the perfect place to be a tourist in my own city since the price points at many of these shops boutiques shoot my moon. A girl can dream…and canoodle.

Paige Denim on Robertson Blvd.

• I love Paige Jeans. The store in LA will be giving away a prize every hour on the hour starting 7 PM. If you buy a pair of jeans, you’ll get a Carasoin Spa gift. Refreshments and bites will be served.

The Dandy Warhols play Fred Segal, 8100 Melrose

• I can’t really argue with putting music in the mix, especially on an occasion celebrating fashion. The Portland alt rock band will be playing a live set. And while you’re there…

Magnolia Bakery Pop-up Shop at Ron Herman, 8100 Melrose

• Fresh our way on 3rd Street by way of New York – will be setting up a pop-up shop from 6-10PM. Special edition FNO cupcakes (devil’s food with meringue icing) will be available for sale, with $0.50 of each $3.25 cupcake going towards City of Hope. Also for sale: Classic vanilla, chocolate and chocolate buttermilk cupcakes ($2.75); assortment of brownies, bars and squares ($2.50) and a variety of Magnolia homemade cookies (.75 to $3).

Buy J Brand Jeans at Ron Herman, 8100 Melrose

• Great for gals who are currently looking for that perfect fitting pair of jeans. When you become 1 of the first 50 to buy a pair of full priced jeans, you’ll get a $50 gift card on a future J Brand purchase at Ron Herman plus a gift.

Fluxus at Santa Monica Place

• Preview Jeffrey Sebelia’s fall/winter collection while enjoying cupcakes over champagne. A DJ will be spinning tunes. If you buy two items, you’ll get the third free.

All events are timed to go from 6 – 10 PM, unless specified otherwise.

That’s it in a nutshell. Go crazy – and if window shopping and fashionista canoodling is more your speed, at least there’s cupcakes and champagne. Have a great night!

This is a last-minute one, folks. But hey – it’s free, and it’s at the über-hip De La Barracuda, an art-music-skate venue located in West Hollywood. You’ll be hard-pressed to find another art gallery that also houses a mini skate park, hair salon and tattoo parlor. Hosting you tomorrow will be LA designer Dr. Romanelli and De La Barracuda founder Miguel de la Barracuda. Sip up your SoBe drinks and soak in all the urban culture via ultra-exclusive art, skate decks, and other apparel from Dr. Romanelli.

The Dublab Soundsystem DJs Ty Segall and Very Be Careful will be spinning tunes for your audial sensibilities. It’s all ages, so there will be SoBe flavors for everyone – including mixed drinks for those over 21, so bring your ID. Food trucks will be on-site, cool activities with prizes and giveaways will happen throughout the day. All you have to do is RSVP via email with your name.

See you there.

The Library at Bastide

If you ever thought French restaurants were immune to happy hours, Bastide will prove you wrong – for one day per week. Starting next week on July 26th and on every Monday thereafter from 5 – 7 PM, not only will Bastide host a happy hour, you’ll be able to enjoy the duration of it at a flat rate of $15.

For their pre-dinner social hour (or two), guests will enjoy one of three select wines by the glass, Bastide’s signature Soju Martini or the exclusively created cocktail, which changes weekly. Indulge in passed h’ors d’oeurves like Yellowtail Tartare with Coconut, Basil and Citrus and their Summer Corn Soup with Crispy Pork Nuggets and Curry Oil, which are all included in the price.

Your best bet is probably to get there in the beginning so you can secure your lounging spot and gain the attention of your server. I can get behind Bastide’s recent push to become accessible… And if your wallet can handle it on that particular Monday, what better reason than to secure that reservation for what’s sure to be a spectacular dinner?

Bienvenido Gustavo! at The Hollywood Bowl (October 1, 2009)

Hollywood Bowl season is upon us! And what better opportunity to combine your love of food with your love of music than to do up the pre-performance picnic the right way? Grab a recommended wine from Jill at Domaine LA to pair with your food and you’re set. Just make sure your show is an official Bowl event and not leased out. If it’s leased out (most likely to include the high profile rock bands not part of the KCRW World Music Series), then you’re confined to the Patina catering sold (or served in your fancy box seats) at the venue. If not, you’re good to go!

Below, you’ll find options all over town. So wherever you hail from, you’re set to make your little haven in Hollywood home for a few hours whether they be Pool, Garden, Terrace, Super or bench seats. And by the way, yes, you can always order from Nancy Silverton’s Mozza2Go – I would just recommend ordering and picking up extra early in the day on Bowl nights given its vicinity and the likelihood everyone may be thinking the same thing as you. Here we go… (Check the map at the bottom for a visual of all mentioned locations.)

Napa Valley Grille – Westwood

When at UCLA, I always knew the Napa Valley Grille as the out-of-range option for us students – the place you got your parents to take you to when they visited from out-of-town. But they’ve recently come out with a boxed lunch program that seems pretty accessible to me, ranging from $10.75 to $13.75 with 3 seasonal options from Executive chef Joseph Gillard and packaged in recyclable materials. You can wax Napa in Hollywood (or elsewhere) as they are themed after different Napa Valley regions:

Russian River Menu: Shrimp Salad Sandwich, with Poached White Shrimp, Fine Herbs, Buttermilk Dressing, and Shaved Cabbage on a Soft Herb Roll; Sweet Pea Salad with Butter Lettuce and Green Goddess Dressing; housemade Napa Potato Chips; and Summer Fruit Trifle ($13.75)

Stag’s Leap Menu: Slow-Roasted Rare Prime Beef Sandwich with Bacon, Red Onion Jam, Creamy Horseradish, and Smoked Cheddar Cheese on Pretzel Bread; Roasted Red Fingerling Potato Salad; housemade Napa Potato Chips; and a Black and White Cookie ($12.75)

St. Helena Menu: Roasted Vegetable Foccaccia with Grilled Zucchini, Eggplant, Portabella Mushroom, White Bean Hummus, Tomato Fondue, and Basil Goat Cheese on Herb Ciabatta Bread; Orzo Pasta Salad with Pepperdew Peppers, Spring Onions, and Golden Balsamic Vinaigrette; housemade Napa Potato Chips; and a “Blondie” Bar ($10.75)

You’ll undoubtedly want dessert (not included) - so choose from delicious selections like Mini Eclairs with Cordillera Dark Chocolate-Brandy Cream, Bourbon Pecan Bars and White Chocolate Coconut Cookies.

Call to place order

Napa Valley Grille
1100 Glendon Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90024
310.824.3322
@nvgwestwood

Petrossian Boutique & Restaurant – Robertson/West Hollywood

Ordering your take-away items from Petrossian means you demand taste, style and class. More power to you. In fact, I just ate there last night and was delightfully reminded how absolutely talented Chef Ben Bailly is. So tote his offerings to The Bowl – your tastebuds will be titillated while your ears are enchanted. Below are some picnicking suggestions straight off their menu:

Caviar Surprise, served in a caviar tin and comprised of layers of Caviar, King Crab, Crème Fraîche and Apple Cider Jelly ($32)

Caviar Dip and Sweet Potato Chips ($14)

Blinis with Caviar, Trout, and Salmon Roe; the Green Bean Salad with Burrata, Marcona almonds and Transmontanus Caviar ($18)

Smoked Salmon Tartine with Goat Cheese, Capers, and Caviar ($16)

Eggxiting Caviar—two 12 gram “eggs” of Transmontanus caviar and spoons in an isothermic case ($49)

Petrossian CaviarCubes ($45)

Foie Gras and Pâté (from $20)

The Petrossian staff will kindly package the items to go in one of their stylish cooler bags or pack your picnic basket for you. Provide your credit card number ahead of time and they’ll deliver your items to you in your car.

Call to order

Petrossian Boutique & Restaurant
321 N. Robertson Blvd.
West Hollywood, CA 90048
310.271.0576
@petrossianweho

DaVinci – Beverly Hills

Chef Jason Fullilove, who just left Ilan Hall’s The Gorbals, decided to move west into Beverly Hills to take over the kitchen serving up Mediterranean at DaVinci. He has something special for picnickers on-the-go – appropriately coined Al Fresco. For $30 per person, you get an appetizer, main course and dessert. Also, if you purchase Al Fresco for two, DaVinci will offer 15% off a bottle of wine.

Choice of:
Cheese charcuterie plate
Pita plate
Seasonal fruit plate

Choice of:
Chilled seafood salad with lemon chive emulsion
Kobe steak sandwich with poached pear salad
Roast chicken with peperonata & feta salad

Choice of:
Assorted cookies
Pistachio brownies
Meyer lemon panna cotta

Call to order – order at least one day in advance

DaVinci
9737 S. Santa Monica Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.888.0090

M Cafe de Chaya – Melrose/Hollywood, Culver City, Beverly Hills

The Macrobiotic mavens in town will actually be offering the most affordable options in this round-up, thanks to their 5-year anniversary and recent push to spread the gospel to all health-seeking diners around the city. This month, they offer two rotating $5 specials per week - and this week’s just so happens to be their Falafel Wrap and M Chopped Salad.

Week of June 7 — Falafel Wrap & M Chopped Salad (Grab & Go only)
Week of June 14 — 2 Salad Combo & Tofu Bento (Grab & Go only)
Week of June 21 — Breakfast Enchilada (breakfast hours only) and Double Chocolate Fudge Cake

Dessert ($5 for month of June)

Green Tea Roll Cake (Green Tea Sponge Cake made with Green Tea Soy Cream). All desserts from the Patisserie are made without the use of dairy, eggs, or refined sugar.

Remember, the $5 specials are only available for take-away, so allow enough time for the ordering and preparation.

@ilovemcafe

BLD – Hancock Park/Beverly Blvd

Chef Diana Stavardis has some things cooked up to get you dining at The Hollywood Bowl in high style and great flavor. Choose from a Cheese & Charcuterie plate, Bell Pepper Hummus, a Tuna Nicoise Salad, the Buttermilk Battered Fried Chicken Sandwich – the possibilities are endless. Be sure to peep the menu before you order since there are so many choices - BLD will package your food just so you can enjoy it while you enjoy your music.

Call to order at least 6 hrs in advance; pick-up between 9 AM – 6 PM daily.

Menu

BLD Restaurant
7450 Beverly Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90036-2701
323.930.9744
@bldchefd

Elements Kitchen – Pasadena

The innovative Pasadena eatery is offering Bento Boxes at $37 per person with a minimum of 2 persons per order. In it, you’ll be treated to a cheese plate with accompaniments, salad, choice of a well-furnished main course and even dessert. You’ll even get a bottle of Pellegrino included with your take-away box.

Hors d’oeuvres
Imported & domestic cheese plate
Seasonal fruit & crackers

Salad
Mixed Greens with Golden Raisins & Toasted Almonds, White balsamic vinaigrette

Main Course (choice of one of the following)
Beef Kebab with Roasted vegetables
Cumin & Coriander Scented Chicken Breast Fillet
Curried Vegetables
Cauliflower, Eggplant, Bell peppers, Chick peas

Each main course is served with:
Farrow Birriani
Apricots, Dried figs, Chili de arbol, Mint & Coriander Chutney

Dessert
Coconut Pound Cake
Seasonal fruit coulis

Just a side note: A great option to get to the Hollywood Bowl from Pasadena would be the Metro. Wa-lah! No stacked parking headaches (or parking at Hollywood & Highland just to walk back up the hill again).

Call to order – order at least one day in advance.
Cancellations require one day notice.

Elements Kitchen
37 S. El Molino Ave.
Pasadena, CA 91101
626.440.0001
@elementskitchen

Oh, so many glorious ways to enjoy your night at The Hollywood Bowl!! Have a great season!!

Sonoma County Lamb - ancho & guajillo chiles, roasted garlic, cumin in Chile Colorado, black beans

If it’s one thing I’ve learned to appreciate during my tenure in California, it would have to be Mexican food. Los Angeles has opened my eyes to probably the best Mexican food in the country – so when I heard Rick Bayless had decided to expand in our city, my interest was piqued. It’s not a restaurant that is Bayless’ so much as one that has consulted him on the menu and brought a lot of the elements of his Chicago restaurants directly to Melrose – but good enough. It has his name on it; I’ll take it – and thank Executive Chef Michael Brown in the meantime.

Dining room with heated floor

When I travel to Chicago, Mexican food and seafood are cuisines I flat-out avoid (celebrity chefs aside). I was curious to experience first-hand his approach to it, however, and I’m happy to say that it didn’t disappoint. In fact, the food was inspiring – a large part made possible with the quality ingredients that I imagine are much more accessible than in Chicago - and the ambiance of the natural, modern space completed an overall enjoyable dinner. Price points were reasonable, save for the “Mexico’s Celebrated Seven” – which, if you should want to get committal at Red O, include an achiote-marinated Gleason Ranch suckling pig, a spicy green chile-marinated Creekstone Natural rib-eye.

Gleason Ranch Pork Belly Sopes - black beans, salsa negra, sesame

But the important thing was that the flavors were as vibrant as Mexican fare should be. Dark sauces, light sauces, pork belly, chicken, duck, steak dishes were all solid – but you might laugh if I told you that the tortillas were good. Don’t, because this ground level ingredient is so often overlooked, and Red O passing the test allowed me to appreciate the actual dishes with a keener eye.

The pork belly sopes were the sweet kind of delicious, with the salsa negra giving it good depth. I could see myself at the bar with a tray of these, washed down with their Topolo Margarita (Sauza Conmemorativo tequila, Gran Torres orange liqueur and limonada) – the only straight-up cocktail on the menu at the time of our visit. The cocktail menu is actually being revised right now, which is a good thing since I thought every other drink was too easily bruised by the ice, having started off with not enough flavor. Or, perhaps, liquor.

Crab & Shrimp Enchiladas Suizas - creamy roasted tomatillo sauce, freshly-made corn tortillas, melted Sonoma Jack, black beans, ensaladita

Other favorites of mine included the Crab & Shrimp Enchiladas, served with perfectly cooked black beans which countered the slight saltiness of the crab and shrimp inside the blanketed enchiladas. The tomatillo with its slight smoky flavor was delicious as was the melted cheese – and the texture was tender, not soggy and I was happy with the ease of forking each bite into my mouth.

Taquitos - Slow-Cooked Sonoma Duck tomato-árbol chile sauce, arugula

The duck taquitos were also a hit, with the slow-cooked, rich bird filling out their crispy-on-the-edges, tender-on-the-inside rolls of corn-shelled tacos. The argula topping was a nice touch to the mild tomato-arbol chile sauce – while letting the duck be the centerpiece of it all.

The lamb (title picture) - a meat that I can really get behind if prepared correctly – was perfect for tacos, as well. It was extremely tender and very approachable for those who don’t normally like lamb. I really liked the chile broth in this one – plus, who doesn’t like garlic? I appreciated that there were fried onions added, giving a crispyness to the dish that most wouldn’t think to include.

Steak & Heirloom Tomato Salad, watermelon, guajillo chile dressing, wood-grilled scallions, grilled Creekstone skirt steak

Another favorite of mine was the steak and heirloom tomato salad – and as if the tomatoes weren’t enough, there were vacuum-prepared, cubed watermelon added to the mix to make it an extra refreshing plate. The steak was super tender and perfectly pink in the center of each cut. I could also order this at the bar if I felt like a light but delicious meal…and a cocktail.

Fortunately, the modernized Mexican food made with quality ingredients isn’t everything to be desired – the ambiance matches the mantra. The space, designed by Gulla Jonsdottir, was superbly thought-out and crafted. It made great use of natural light when available during the day – with the option of an automated closing door on the open space “indoor” patio if need be. You won’t see any heat lamps at Red O, because there lay heating coils underneath the stone-grout floor to keep all diners comfortably warm without the overhead glare of a gas-powered metal fixture. Perfect. Also, it was revealed by Gulla that the steel and wooden wrappings of the restaurant on the outside represent that the restaurant is a gift to Los Angeles – as if from Mexico. It really is a beautiful space, inside and out.

Tequila Tunnel

And I must not forget to mention the tequila hall. It’s a visual haven for any tequila drinker, surely – but I couldn’t help but notice that I was singularly inspired by the small batch of Jose Cuervo Extra Anejo with its hand-written bottle number. It reminded me of Scotch in the best way possible – tasting more notes of wood than actual agave. But the other tequilas in the flight (Corralejo, Don Julio), I had learned about from my tequila-drinking ex-boyfriend and so the selection left me wanting to continue my education in small batch tequilas from just across the Southern border. Apparently, the tequila list had been imported directly from Chicago; we’ll see if that gets revised along with the cocktail menu.

Topolo Margarita

In the meantime, I’m happy to enjoy a few Sopes, a salad and the Topolo Margarita cocktail at the bar while sitting in a black leather swing-seat. How chic…

All food and drink were hosted.

Further reading:

Red O Restaurant: New Mexican, Tequila Tunnel and More Cowbell – Caroline on Crack

Red O: Rick Bayless Stamped Mexican-esque Cuisine in L.A. – Teenage Glutster

Open:
Sunday – Thursday: 5 – 11 PM
Friday – Saturday: 5 PM – Midnight

RED O
8155 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90046
323.655.5009

Outside of Red O