Piccolo Venice Doubles in Size With Flavors & Charm To Match

Garganelli Neri ai Ricci | Squid ink Garaganelli, fresh sea urchin emulsion, quail egg shavings

I had never been to Piccolo on the beach prior to their remodel. One of my girlfriends, a lady of Venice, had eaten dinner there however and had raved about it – so I was excited when I was invited to taste their food. Piccolo is now twice the size it once was, but to my observation it had the charm to match their expansion.

Caprese: A Revision

I appreciated the open kitchen, which really added to the still-intimate, neighborhood feel of the restaurant. Italian hospitality is exuded by every employee there. The fact that the food also delivers will make you forget that you are dining on the beach without so much as a view of it, lest you score one of the few outdoor patio spots. We’re not in Malibu, anymore. The saying is “location, location, location” (not “view, view, view”), and it seems that Piccolo is more than content to rest its reputation on its food with its locale reflecting its desire to be Venice’s Northern Italian speakeasy. Only public parking is available, and expect no apologies about it – your reward comes in the cuisine.

We started out with Chef Roberto’s new-for-summer revision of Caprese as we knew it – with burrata and micro cilantro topping a multi-colored and -layered, fluffy gelee floated with olive oil and seasoned with a delicious Hawaiian Lava salt. It was refreshing, delightful and a nice introduction to what followed.

Capesante Gratinate | Seared sea scallops over parmesan-truffle fondue

With our palates opened, we were ready to enjoy a tasting-sized yet indulgent serving of seared sea scallops – perfectly done so with flavorful brown coloring on one side of the sliced scallop to reveal an ever slim ring outside a tender center on the other. The thin shaving of truffle, as always, was magic – yet I couldn’t leave a drop of the creamy parmasan fondue on my plate. All three components together are a match made in heaven – made in no small part by its proportioning.

Risotto con Salsiccia di Cinghiale - Vialone Nano rice, home-made wild boar sausage, parmesan fondue
Risotto con Salsiccia di Cinghiale | Vialone Nano rice, home-made wild boar sausage, parmesan fondue

The Squid Ink Garganelli was another favorite, with the dark, ridged rolls having that perfect al dente bite; soggy, Americanized pasta seemed more than just blocks away. The earthiness of the egg pasta was further rounded out by shavings of dried, salted quail egg yolk (alternately substituted with bottarga shavings) and the delicious sea urchin emulsion the pasta lay upon. We partook after tossing. The fullness of the egg pasta infused with squid ink was so delicious and could only come straight from the sea – yet precluded the saltiness that the inclusion of shellfish would bring. In this dish, I appreciated that the salt element was subtle enough to really let the squid ink really shine.

Germano Reale al Miele | Pan-seared breast of Mallard (wild duck), truffled-honey sauce

The housemade wild boar sausage risotto was also delicious. It had real depth thanks to the bits of sausage and almost-smoky tomato-based sauce. The risotto did well in holding flavor of the sauce while the consistency of each grain remained deliciously firm at the center – the way risotto should be.

The seared slices of duck breast had a delicious layer of fat which was so perfect in absorbing the truffled-honey sauce it was dressed with. It’s an indulgent, sweet Secondi and I would easily order it again (once I had tried most other things on the menu, that is). If sweet, rich and tender bird is your speed, you should definitely order this dish. The pickled greens and cubes of what seemed to be cornbread were great accompaniments, cutting the richness while complimenting the duck slices.
Continue reading