Chilled English Pea Soup | Mint (2-ways), Chantilly, Buckwheat Streusel

What’s a chef to do – and where is he to go – once he quits his posh Patina Restaurant Group post as Executive Chef at Cafe Pinot?

The answer? It’s infallibly to do one’s own series of roving dinners in various homes. Chef Kevin Meehan’s intention? Hosting a group of appreciative guests with adventurous and social bents.

Yellowtail Confit | Beet, Brown Butter Powder, Balsalmic, Pink Peppercorns

What you get, then, is a start-up dinner series that brings together a myriad of moving parts – but the difference with this particular dinner party is that the least questionable variable is the quality of the food. In essence, there’s no better way to enjoy a multi-course opus by Chef Meehan than within the context and intimacy of an 8-person dinner party. The mystery of the night’s dinner menu is navigated by that day’s foraged finds and treasures unearthed at the fish and farmer’s market. (Those with dietary restrictions are encouraged to let Chef know when the reservation is made.)

The evening begins with a reception of sorts as you sip wine in the comforts of an outdoor, dimly but charmingly lit patio and begin to get acquainted with your fellow diners – after all, you’ll be sharing a table so you may as well get cozy. Sidenote: It’s probably best to get a pre-dinner wine, or at least something a little unexpected or white, to share for this; it seemed that everyone at my party had food on the mind (and why wouldn’t they) when they picked out their wines.

Beef Tenderloin Fillet | Potato, Garlic Ash, Onion Variation

And for five inventive and intriguing courses (plus amuse bouche) and an unexpectedly pleasant group of characters at the dinner my guest and I were privy to, it was an evening well spent. Or if you have that special occasion in mind, you can book your own dinner party for you and your friends. After all, no where else will you get top-notch courses in an ultimately casual, stress-free environment. But I really like the idea of matching your “omakase” style dinner to the chef’s choice co-mingling of guests. Dinner parties, after all, are for adventurers.

One thing I’ve noticed about many dinner parties, too, is that there’s a pacing left to be desired for the diners, or shall I say guests? But each course at Kali Dining was evenly and perfectly spaced and a fitting ascension unto the next. And I, for one, thought it was the perfect amount of food. Each plate was a piece of art yet evaded being too fussy.

So you best get to Kali Dining before Chef Kevin “goes out and gets a real job” (disclaimer: his words, not mine). This is one temporary pop-up installment on the westside you won’t want to miss out on.

Duck Breast, Roasted Cauliflour, Basil Puree, Dried Fig and Brandy Gastrique, Crispy Fennel | Photo credit: Tricia Romano

When Chef Alessandra invited me to her transplanted-from-Oregon (and before that, Spain) underground supper club, I was intrigued. The theme of the night was of the lovers’ variety. And so I traveled to a quaint backyard somewhere in a lovely LA neighborhood to partake in her Aphrodisiac Dinner. I went solo, but was comforted when I found the dinner party also included fun company – no doubt a result of the kind of company the exuberance of the chef naturally attracted.

Oyster Two Ways: Sauteed Cornmeal Crusted Oyster on Red Wine Onion Confit & Fanny Bay on the Halfshell With Red Wine Shallot Mignonette | Photo by Tricia Romano

It was a beautiful setting – and one in which it was comfortable to enjoy a full-on eight courses (plus a bonus course) with wine pairings. Though I admit I was worried when I saw it was to take place outside, it was not too cold nor too warm underneath that cozy, red light-tinged tent. The setting is no detail to be glossed over when it comes to underground supper clubs, but in Orgasmo de la Boca’s case, it was perfect. The explanations behind what was going on through Chef Allesandra’s mind while constructing each dish were lovely to behold as my fellow diners and I pondered each bite.

And so was the pacing. Coupled with the quality and tastiness of the dishes, the dining experience was top-notch. Of course, there was at least one love- (or lust-?) inducing ingredient by any interpretation in each course. Oysters two ways; pork via “Bacon and Eggs” – that is, Poached Arauncana Egg in Iberico Nest with Sundried Tomato Butter poached Fingerlings and Ovan Roasted Grape Tomatoes; chili via Fried Mushroom Salad with Chipotle Chervil Aioli and strawberry via a Strawberry-Ginger Granite as a mid-dinner palate cleanser. The wine pairings were also stellar, bringing in another dimension to each course and even the wine itself as proper pairings should.

Dining the Orgasmo de la Boca Way | Photo by Tricia Romano

I always love oysters – especially on the halfshell – and the spicy Fried Mushroom Salad was absolutely lovely, especially when paired with the ’09 Marina Alta Blanco. My favorite was actually a main – the duck breast with the cauliflour and basil puree with dried fig and brandy gastrique as well as fennel. Apparently, women used to dust powdered basil on themselves as a scent and figs were Cleopatra’s favorite fruit. With fennel (which the Egyptians used as a libido enhancement) making the third aphrodisiac ingredient in this dish, perhaps I was really into the thematics and this is why my appetite ultimately “culminated” with this one!

Also delicious was the Coriander Crusted Salmon with Sunchoke Puree and Latke in Tomato and Asparagus Broth. With asparagus and especially coriander being the key ingredients here, I admit there is rarely an experience where I don’t enjoy salmon and this night would have been no exception. The coriander was a really nice touch, highlighting the richness of the fish.

Coriander Crusted Salmon, Sunchoke Puree and Latke, Tomato and Asparagus Broth | Photo by Tricia Romano

Of course, it’s not a proper “love” dinner without dessert, and the “Chocolate Covered Menage a Trois” with sea salt panna cotta, frozen bananas and almond brittle (or manage a quatre with the ’09 Monticelli Muscato d’Asti) did not disappoint. The saltiness, sweetness from both chocolate and fruit and multiple textures just bombarded the senses and was a conclusion to behold.

While Allesandra is known for her smoked olives (see: Artisanal LA), it is clear that she deserves an honest look at her underground dinners. They’re delicious, professional yet hospitable and are a multiple-course tour de force to be reckoned with. The themes change according to her whimsy and inspiration, so there’s a different experience awaiting each diner every time. One thing is constant, however: You can sense her passion in each bite.

For the next dinner on June 4, be sure to reserve here.

All food and wine were hosted.

Special thanks to Tricia Romano for the photos.

Black Bass | tortilla puree, avocado, onion, cilantro flowers, lime

Underground supper clubs are all the rage these days, but there’s something to be said about the stress placed on their novelty. Does the fact that you are in-the-know and dining in secret digs wear out by the 3rd course? Are the setting, the ambiance and the company used to justify the food? Does defying health codes fail to elicit giggles at the table by the 5th course? Is that pillow you’re sitting on uncomfortable and superfluous dinner entertainment not…entertaining?

Celery Root | parsnip soup, crab, crouton

A night at Wolvesmouth doesn’t warrant a Yes to any of the above. To the contrary, this is innovative and thought-provoking food by Chef Craig. When you book a night at the Wolves’ Den, come prepared to embark on a 10-14 course culinary expedition. It’s not for the faint of heart but for the adventurous and ravenous. Each course is like an art piece, with ingredients being a sight for the senses as well (mmm, flowers). The dishes were each worthy of their own accord. If forced to guess which dish was inserted for “fluff” to fill the 10 course quota, I would have an extremely hard time choosing. The pacing of this underground meal would surprise you; dishes came out expediently and would shame places in which I’ve done half as many courses as at Wolvesmouth. I knew even before entering The Den that this meal was belated; rave reviews came in from friends on a consistent basis. Now, it was finally my turn.

Lamb | baharat, lamb belly, apricot, preserved lemon yogurt, pistachio, pita chips, arugula, arugula flowers

The parsnip soup with crab got our evening (organized by Catty) off to a great start. Though the soup could have been hotter, I enjoyed the texture and taste as well as both cold and hot preparations of the crab. Buttery croutons appropriately seasoned the crab. Next up was a perfectly-seared scallop arranged with charred cauliflower, meyer lemon and of course, bacon. While this was probably the most “traditional” course in the meal, that’s not discounting that it was still delicious.

My favorite fish dish of the night was also the most beautiful. A small filet of black bass sat atop pureed avocado, a long swipe of tortilla puree and garnished with pickled onion, lime and cilantro flowers. The crispy skin of the bass had great flavor against the mildness of the avocado, yet was perfectly complemented when coupled with the pickled onion and lime.

The pappardalle beneath the braised rabbit was actually being hand-rolled when the diners and I walked in, and I could taste that freshness when it came time for the course. The pasta had the perfect bite, matched only by the forest mushrooms – all tossed in an extremely flavorful, rich sauce. This is one of those dishes that I really wish I had the capacity to have consumed more. I’m learning that I love rabbit (or hare); perhaps I’m just lucky that my most recent applications have been here and in Tijuana.

Pork cheek pelmoni | apple, horseradish, creme fraiche, dill, chive, cabbage, white beets

The pork cheek pelmoni (read: dumplings) was surprisingly the most vibrant, as well as up there with “most aesthetically pleasing,” course of the night. I loved the tender skin on these babies and the pork cheeks had good flavor inside of them – but there were tons of things going on here with the sweet apples, the velvety creme fraiche, the dill, the subtle horseradish. Still, it wasn’t too much, and I’m not sure why. I probably had my think face on during this one, and just when I thought I was tapping out, I was able to empty most that was on this plate.

My experience at Wolvesmouth hinted that Chef Craig might love the lesser-used meats. No cow on the menu, and barely any pork. That would be too obvious. Instead, it was two fish, rabbit and lamb – the lattest of which was so tender, encrusted in Moroccan Baharat and my favorite. The tang of the lemon yogurt and sweetness of the apricot jam really worked the flavors of the meat.

Dessert could be where you learn that Wolvesmouth is also interactive. Try a orange blossom-filled white chocolate capsule. I watched my fellow diners stain their clothes in an enthusiastic smashing of the balls before gently tapping mine. And this is where the art was truly transformed into sweet surrender. Green tea shortbread and yuzu shortbread added a crumbly texture to the raspberry and orange blossom flavors on top of the creme fraiche panna cotta.

Elvis Sandwich | Peanut butter ice cream, honey french toast, bacon, banana

Behold: The Elvis Sandwich. If you knew scallops and bacon went well together, now you know that peanut butter ice cream, bacon, honey french toast and banana go together even better. This is the dessert that you didn’t know existed but wish you did for all the years you’ve been in existence. True comfort dessert made over-the-top with bacon yet justified with banana (potassium is good for you). Flavors, textures, this dessert’s really got it all.

Go home and make it now.

Or, simply join a Wolvesmouth dinner, or book your own group of 8-10 people. Be prepared for a mind-blowing experience. It’s clear that Chef Craig is really allowed to do everything he wants in his kitchen – his creative space – and we are indeed lucky to be the dining room guests enjoying the works getting pumped out of it. The loft is open, just as he chooses, and the decorations are minimal yet full of character. The seats are comfy and the focus really is on the food and company. It’s pay-as-you-wish (with the concensus reaping ~$100 per person), which is really an honorable business model and meant to pay it forward. Seeing as they prepare for a day or more in advance for every dinner, however, I hope that they are reaping some unexpected rewards. This dinner party has already blown up; I’m just glad I got to be a part.

I also hear via Twitter that Craig is considering vegetarian and brunch options, so expansion may very well be just on the horizon. Thank god.

SPARC, Venice | Photo credit to yovenice on Flickr (YoVenice.com)

Looking to shop local this weekend? Check out The Food Redenzvous tomorrow in Venice at the SPARC building (which so happens to currently house art galleries and formerly the Venice division of the LAPD). Though it’s great that more and more farmer’s markets are springing up in each of our individual communities, you’ll be getting something a little different at The Food Rendezvous. They make it possible for small, emerging food artisans to reach their customers despite difficult wait times (sometimes as long as 2-3 years to get a stand) and permit costs the farmer’s markets may incur.

Laurie Dill is a Master Gardener and on the board of the Garden School Foundation and Dominique Leveuf has a juice and beverage line with her partner sourced from local and fairly traded produce. They, as the event’s founders, aim to make Food Rendezvous interactive and inspirational with author talks and cooking demonstrations, a cookbook swap (donate your old one, get one back, keep buying for $5 each), a jam making contest and a food-related movie screening.

As for the vendors at the first ever event, you can expect Bulgarini Gelato, Josie’s English Kitchen Jams, Joelle Olive Oil, Let’s Be Frank, Morning Glory Confections, Susan Feniger’s Street and more. With more of us conscionably shopping from local artisans, this looks like the start of something beautiful…